Fits: 2006-2011 Honda Civic 8th generation sedan. Sedan only, not the coupe or hatchback.
These steps cover all three builds: Clear, Quad Projector, and RGB Quad Projector. Removal and fitting are identical; the RGB build has an extra app setup section at the end.
The front bumper cover has to come off to reach the headlights. Nothing in the job is difficult, but there are a lot of fasteners and several are hidden underneath, so give yourself time and keep the hardware sorted as you go.
Required Tools
- Flat blade screwdriver or panel clip tool
- 10mm socket and ratchet
- Phillips head screwdriver
- Painter's tape
Part 1: Remove the Front Bumper Cover
Step 1: Protect the Fenders and Remove the Grille Clips
Run painter's tape along the fender edges so nothing gets scratched. Then pop out the plastic clips holding the top grille cover with a flat blade screwdriver.
Tip: these clips go brittle with age. Ease the center pin up first, then pull the whole clip, and fewer of them will break.
Step 2: Remove the Wheel Well Screws
Turn the steering for clearance. In each front wheel well there is a Phillips screw holding the bumper corner to the fender. Remove both.
Tip: these rust. Push inward hard while you turn, or you will strip the head.
Step 3: Remove the Upper Shroud Panel
With the grille clips and fender screws out, slide your hands under the large plastic upper engine shroud, lift, and draw it forward. Set it aside.
Tip: check every top clip is really out first, then use steady even pressure so the shroud does not crack.
Step 4: Remove the Lower Bumper Fasteners
Underneath the front bumper, remove the 10mm bolts and the remaining plastic clips holding the splash shield to the bumper.
Tip: keep these separate from the top clips. They are a different size and usually caked in dirt.
Step 5: Remove the Hidden Underside Screws
Still underneath, find and remove the hidden screws and push pins along the splash shield extension and the lower bumper support, which is what finally frees the bumper from the subframe.
Tip: dirt makes these hard to spot. Make sure every one is out before you pull on the bumper.
Step 6: Pull the Bumper Cover Off
Take hold of the bumper corner by the fender flare and pull outward to unclip it. With both sides free, draw the bumper forward off the car and unplug the fog lights if fitted.
Tip: pull straight and evenly, and have cardboard or a mat ready to lay the bumper on.
Part 2: Remove the Factory Headlights
Step 7: Remove the Headlight Bolts
There are three 10mm bolts holding the headlight housing: one on top, one on the inner side near the grille, and one at the lower outer corner that the bumper removal has just exposed.
Tip: the lower one is recessed and often tight. Use an extension so the socket sits square on it.
Step 8: Remove the Lower Bracket Bolt
Look directly under the headlight housing for a fourth 10mm bolt, the one holding the lower metal support bracket to the frame. Take it out.
Tip: this is the bolt everyone forgets, because it holds the bracket rather than the housing. Do not tug on the headlight until it is out.
Step 9: Disconnect the Wiring
Draw the headlight forward enough to reach behind it, then press the thumb tab on each connector to unplug the high beam, low beam, side marker and turn signal. Lift the headlight off the car.
Tip: road grit makes these stiff. Squeeze the tab firmly and rock the plug gently sideways as you pull rather than forcing it straight out.
Part 3: Install the New Headlights
Step 10: Transfer the Lower Mounting Bracket
Take the factory mounting bracket off the bottom of the old headlight with a Phillips screwdriver and fit it to the same position on the new housing.
Tip: line the bracket's locating pins up with the slots on the new housing before driving any screws. Snug is enough; overtightening cracks the new mounting tabs.
Step 11: Connect and Position the New Headlight
Plug all four factory connectors into the back of the new housing, then slide the assembly into its mounting rails.
Tip: push each connector until it clicks, and check no wire is trapped behind the housing.
Step 12: Bolt the Headlight Down
Refit all the 10mm bolts to the radiator support and the lower frame bracket.
Tip: before you fully tighten the top bolts, nudge the lamp until its edges line up flush with the hood and fender. That is what gives you even body gaps.
Test now, before the bumper goes back on. Switch the ignition on and check the DRL, low beam, high beam, side marker and turn signals on both sides.
Step 13: Refit the Bumper Cover
Lift the bumper back on, guiding the upper center section over the grille support first, then line the corners up with the fenders and push them straight back until they snap in.
Tip: a firm slap with the flat of your palm at each corner seats the plastic teeth properly and closes the gap.
Step 14: Refit Everything Else
Working in the reverse order of disassembly, put back the underside bolts, support screws and wheel well screws, refit the upper engine shroud and press in all the top clips. Then take the painter's tape off.
Tip: check the engine bay and underside for any leftover clip or screw, and peel the tape slowly at about 45 degrees so it leaves no residue.
The Clear and Quad Projector builds are now fully installed. The next section applies only to the RGB Quad Projector build.
RGB Quad Projector: Star Light Running App Setup
1. Animation control. The app controls the daytime running light animations. The startup animation is preset and cannot be changed.
2. Download the app. Search for "Star Light Running" in the App Store or Google Play, or scan the QR code on the controller box.
3. Bluetooth connection. Open the app, tap Add Device (Figure 2), open the interface (Figure 3), and select the nearby device.
4. Adjusting modes.
- Dynamic mode: the number in the center of the blue box shows the current mode. Tap + or - to switch effects, or AUTO to cycle through all of them.
- Static color: drag the color wheel in the green box, or tap a preset color. This stops any running animation.
- Brightness: drag the slider in the first row of the red box.
- Speed: drag the slider in the last row of the red box.
Tip: if you used the older "Light Running" app and have trouble connecting, use "Star Light Running", the upgraded version.
Road use. Color modes are for show and display use where permitted. Confirm that the standard road-light functions work normally before using any color mode.
Common Issues and Solutions
Headlight does not turn on after installation. Check that all four connectors are fully seated. Inspect the pins inside each one; if any are bent, carefully straighten them with a small precision tool and reconnect securely.
Swap test. If a headlight still does not work, swap the left and right units to find out whether the issue is the light itself or the vehicle wiring.
The bumper will not sit flush. Check that the lower mounting bracket was transferred in Step 10, and that both bumper corners are fully engaged in the fender brackets.
App cannot connect. Turn on Bluetooth and Location Services on your phone (Android needs Location for Bluetooth scanning). Keep other strong signal sources away from the vehicle.
Condensation inside the headlight. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.
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