Fits: 2010-2014 Ford Mustang.
The wiring is not the same across these five model years. Read the wiring section below before you plug anything in: 2010-2012 cars need an extra connection for the daytime running lights that 2013-2014 cars do not.
Required Tools
- 1/4" or 3/8" ratchet
- 7mm, 8mm and 10mm sockets
- Panel popper or clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Electrical tape
Part 1: Remove the Factory Headlights
Step 1: Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable
Open the hood, loosen the nut on the negative terminal clamp, slide the clamp off the post and tuck it aside where it cannot spring back.
Tip: negative first, always. It is what stops a dropped spanner from shorting anything.
Step 2: Remove the Front Bumper Cover
Take out the upper shroud clips, the top mounting bolts, the wheel well liner screws and the underbody splash shield fasteners. Pull the bumper corners outward to release their clips, slide the bumper forward, and unplug the fog lights and side markers as it comes away.
Tip: lay the bumper face-up on a soft blanket.
Step 3: Remove the Headlight Mounting Bolts
Undo the upper bolt near the radiator support first, then the two lower bolts on the bottom brackets.
Tip: keep a hand on the front of the lens as the last bolt comes out, or the headlight will drop.
Step 4: Unplug and Remove the Headlight
Draw the housing forward far enough to reach behind it, press the locking tab on the large main harness plug, slide it off, and lift the headlight away.
Tip: the factory harness on these is short and the plug damages easily. Press the tab all the way in before pulling.
Part 2: Install the New Headlights
Step 5: Fit the New Headlight
Line the new housing up with the factory mounting slots, push the main harness connector into the back until it clicks, and secure the lamp with the original 10mm hardware.
Wiring: Check Your Model Year First
Which plugs you use depends on the year of the car.
- 2013-2014: connect Plug A and Plug B only. The daytime running light is driven by the factory computer. Leave Plug E unused, or keep it for a custom ACC setup.
- 2010-2012: connect Plug C and Plug D for the beams and signals. You must also connect Plug E to the supplied ACC cable and route it to the fuse box, otherwise the daytime running light has no power.
Test before the bumper goes back on. Reconnect the battery, switch the ignition on, and check the low beam, high beam, DRL and side markers on both sides.
Step 6: Refit the Bumper and Align the Beams
Lift the bumper back on and plug the factory fog light and side marker harnesses into the new clear side markers. Snap the bumper sides back onto the fenders, refit every fastener you saved, then set the beam height with the headlight alignment screws.
Tip: get the guide pins lined up before you push the bumper sides home, or you will bend the brackets.
Common Issues and Solutions
Headlight does not turn on after installation. Check that the harness connectors are fully seated. Inspect the pins inside each connector; if any are bent, carefully straighten them with a small precision tool and reconnect securely.
Everything works except the DRL, on a 2010-2012 car. That is Plug E. Check it is connected to the supplied ACC cable and that the cable is properly landed at the fuse box.
Swap test. If a headlight still does not work, swap the left and right units to find out whether the issue is the light itself or the vehicle wiring.
Condensation inside the headlight. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.
