Fits: 2021-2026 Ford Bronco (U725) — all trims, two-door and four-door, including the 2022-2026 Raptor.
Does not fit the Ford Bronco Sport. Different vehicle, different lamp.
What This Lamp Does
Four projectors per side, split by job: two dedicated low beams and two dedicated high beams, each with its own optic and cut-off, plus an amber side marker at the outer corner.
You Pick the DRL Colour at Install
Each headlight carries two DRL leads, one white and one amber. Connect the one you want and leave the other unused and insulated so it cannot short or rattle.
The good news: changing your mind later is a ten-minute job, not another set of headlights. But connect the same lead on both sides — mismatched colours are the most common mistake here.
Before You Start
- Factory reflector housings with and without levelling use different part numbers. Confirm which one you are removing.
- Park on level ground, switch off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal while handling wiring.
- Use masking tape around painted panels, the hood edge and the grille trim.
- Release clips with a trim tool rather than a screwdriver, and have replacement clips on hand.
- Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
- Leave the grille and bumper trim loose until every function has passed testing and the beam aim is set.
Required Tools
- Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
- Metric socket and ratchet set
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers
- Masking tape and clean microfiber towels
- Replacement plastic clips
- Electrical tape (for insulating the unused DRL lead) and zip ties
- A helper for turn signal testing, and a flat wall for beam aiming
Part 1: Remove the Factory Headlights
Step 1: Open the Front End
Open the hood and remove only the grille trim, upper bumper fasteners and access covers you need to reach the headlight fasteners.
Step 2: Expose the Lamp Fasteners
Release the clips with a trim tool, working slowly and confirming each fastener before pulling.
Step 3: Support and Unbolt
Hold the headlight with one hand while removing the remaining bolts or clips.
Step 4: Disconnect
Press each lock tab and pull on the connector body, not on the wires.
Step 5: Draw the Lamp Forward
Release the locating pins by pulling straight forward. Do not pry against a painted panel.
Step 6: One Side at a Time
Finish one side completely before starting the other, so the factory assembly stays available as a reference.
Part 2: Install the New Headlights
Step 7: Compare Before Mounting
Set the old and new assembly side by side. Transfer a bracket, seal or adjuster only where the factory lamp clearly carries a part the new one does not.
Step 8: Choose the DRL Colour — Before You Mount
Decide between the white and the amber DRL lead now. Connect one, and insulate the unused lead with electrical tape so it cannot short or rattle behind the lamp.
Step 9: Connect the Main Harness
Match each supplied connector to the corresponding vehicle connector and confirm the lock tab clicks home. Where an adapter is supplied, connect through it rather than forcing a direct plug.
Step 10: Secure the Wiring
Zip-tie the harness so it cannot rub, pinch, pool water, or touch the hood latch, radiator support or a heat source.
Step 11: Seat and Fasten
Align the locating pins and check the gaps against the hood, fender and grille before tightening. Tighten evenly and do not overtighten plastic mounts.
Step 12: Test Before the Trim Goes Back
- Daytime running lights, low beam and high beam on both sides.
- Confirm the DRL lights in the colour you selected — on both sides.
- Left and right turn signals and hazards.
- Startup animation.
- Cycle the ignition twice and confirm no hyperflash or flicker appears.
Part 3: Set the Beam Aim
You are moving to a projector with a sharp cut-off. A projector aimed too high is worse for oncoming traffic than the lamp it replaced.
- Park square to a flat wall about 25 feet away on level ground, with a normal fuel load and no unusual weight in the cargo area.
- Mark the height of each beam centre on the wall and compare the two sides.
- Use the headlight adjusters to bring the cut-off line level and even across both sides.
Only then refit the grille and bumper trim, confirming no wire is stretched or pinched and that the unused DRL lead is still insulated and secured.
Common Issues and Solutions
The two sides show different DRL colours. A different lead was connected on each lamp. Go back to Step 8 and match them.
One headlight does not turn on. Recheck the main connector on that side and the corresponding fuse.
Warning, flicker or hyperflash. Confirm the connector is fully seated, and that the correct adapter is used where one is supplied, before assuming a fault in the assembly.
Trim will not sit flush. Check for a trapped harness, a broken or missing clip, or a locating pin that has not seated.
Beam pattern looks uneven. Recheck the aim against a flat wall before adjusting anything else.
Condensation inside the headlight. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.
