2018-2020 Ford F-150 LED Headlights Installation Guide

Fits: 2018-2020 Ford F-150 (13th generation facelift).

How you connect depends on your trim:

• XL and XLT with stock halogen — use the included adapter harness.
• Lariat, Platinum and King Ranch with factory OEM LED — connect directly, through the Platinum-style main connector.

The grille has to come off, and to get the grille off, the fender flares and lower valance come off first. Set aside a proper block of time and keep the hardware sorted — this job uses 7 mm, 8 mm and 10 mm fasteners in different places.

Before You Start

• Park on level ground, switch off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal while handling wiring.
• Tape the paint around the wheel wells before you touch the fender flares. That is where the scratches happen.
• Keep the fasteners sorted by position — 7 mm, 8 mm and 10 mm all appear, and they are not interchangeable.
• Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
• Leave the grille and trim off until every function has passed testing and the beam aim is set.

Required Tools

• Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
• Sockets: 7 mm, 8 mm and 10 mm, plus an extension
• Phillips and flat screwdrivers
• Masking tape and clean microfiber towels
• Replacement push clips
• Electrical tape and zip ties for the supplied harnesses
• A flat wall for beam aiming

Part 1: Open Up the Front End

Step 1: Release the Fender Flares

Use a 7 mm socket to remove the screws inside the wheel wells. Tape the paint first. Release the fender flare clips with a trim tool, then pull out the hidden black retainer inside each wheel well. Repeat on both sides.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Valance

Start at either corner, release the retaining clips, and pull the plastic valance below the grille and headlights straight forward.

Step 3: Remove the Radiator Shroud

Open the hood. Remove the push clips along the front edge and around the intake snorkel, then release the three hidden clips along the rear edge and lift the shroud off.

Step 4: Disconnect the Grille Wiring

Disconnect the grille shutter connector near the hood latch, then use a trim tool to release the wiring harness clip.

Step 5: Remove the Grille

Use a 10 mm socket for the four upper grille screws, then an 8 mm socket with an extension for one lower screw on each side. Pull the grille forward to release the lower clips and lift it off.

Part 2: Remove the Factory Headlights

Step 6: Upper and Side Fasteners

Use a 10 mm socket for the two upper screws. Remove the plastic clip at the upper corner, then the side screw near the fender flare.

Step 7: Release the Lower Mounts

Remove the outer 10 mm screw and the inner 8 mm screw below the headlight. Then slide a trim removal tool between the headlight and the plastic air dam and press down to release the lower locking clips.

Step 8: Pull the Headlight Straight Forward

Straight forward — do not twist it sideways. Twisting it breaks the locating pin near the fender, and that is not a repairable mistake. Then disconnect the electrical connectors and lift the lamp out.

Part 3: Install the New Headlights

Step 9: Connect and Position

Connect the factory wiring plugs to the matching connectors on the new headlight. On an XL or XLT with stock halogen, fit the included adapter harness; on a Lariat, Platinum or King Ranch with factory LED, connect directly. Place the headlight in the factory position, then repeat on the other side.

Step 10: Test Before You Tighten Anything Down

1. Low beam and high beam on both sides.
2. DRL and parking lights.
3. Amber turn signal, hazards, the sequential sweep and switchback behaviour.
4. Check for dashboard warnings, flicker or intermittent operation.

Only once both sides pass, secure the headlights and reinstall the grille, wiring, radiator shroud, lower valance and fender flares in reverse order.

Step 11: Set the Beam Aim

Park square to a flat wall about 25 feet away on level ground, mark the height of each beam centre, and bring the cut-off line level and even across both sides. Do not over-adjust the vertical adjuster — and remember a projector aimed too high is worse for oncoming traffic than the lamp it replaced.

Common Issues and Solutions

Neither headlight works on an XL or XLT. The included adapter harness is not fitted. Halogen trucks need it.

One headlight does not turn on. Recheck the main connector lock, the related fuse and the battery connection.

Swap test. If a headlight still does not work, swap the left and right units to find out whether the issue is the light or the truck's wiring.

Warning, flicker or hyperflash. Confirm you installed the build that matches your trim, and that any included decoder, resistor or relay is connected and secured.

The lamp will not seat. Check the locating pin near the fender — if it was twisted during removal it may be damaged.

Beam pattern is too high or uneven. Recheck lamp seating first, then adjust the aim on a flat surface.

Condensation inside the headlight. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.

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