Fits: 2006-2013 Lexus IS250, IS350 and IS F (2nd generation, XE20).
Does not fit the IS250C or IS350C convertible. The convertible uses a different front end.
Three projector cups per side with a white daytime running light, a sequential turn signal, an amber side marker and a startup animation. These steps cover every build; rear housing and connector layout vary slightly between builds, but the main connectors are all direct plug-and-play.
Plan for two things beyond a plain swap: the front bumper has to come off, and the daytime running light takes its power from a fuse tap in the cabin fuse box rather than from the headlight plug.
Before You Start
- Park on level ground and switch the car off.
- Tape the painted edges around the bumper and fender before removal.
- Keep the bumper and liner hardware sorted by position — there are several sizes.
- Work one side at a time so the other lamp stays as a reference.
- Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
- Leave the bumper off until the beam and DRL tests pass.
Required Tools
- Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
- Metric socket and ratchet set, including 10mm and 8mm
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers
- Clean microfiber towels and masking tape
- Electrical tape and zip ties for the supplied harness
- A wall or flat vertical surface for checking beam aim
- A helper for turn signal and beam testing
Part 1: Remove the Front Bumper
Step 1: Remove the Upper Molding
Open the hood and use a trim tool to take out all the plastic clips holding the upper front molding, then lift the molding off.
Step 2: Remove the Upper Bumper Fasteners
Take out the Phillips screws under the rubber grommets on both sides, then use a 10mm socket on the center bolt.
Step 3: Wheel Well Clips and Hidden Bolts
Remove the retaining clips along the edge of each wheel well, then pull the fender liner back to reach and remove the hidden 10mm bolt.
Step 4: Disconnect the Battery
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before you touch any electrical connector. This is what stops a slipped tool from blowing a fuse.
Step 5: Remove the Bumper
Ease both bumper corners outward to release them, and unplug the fog light connectors before you take the bumper right off.
Part 2: Replace the Headlights
Step 6: Remove the Factory Headlight
Use a 10mm socket on the three bolts holding each headlight. Press the locking tab on the main connector, unplug it, and lift the lamp out.
Step 7: Transfer the Bracket and Fit the New Lamp
Move the bracket from the original lamp to the marked position on the new headlight. Then connect the new lamp to the factory harness, set it into position and refit the three mounting bolts.
Step 8: Connect the DRL Fuse Tap
The daytime running light does not take power from the headlight plug. Route the supplied red wire across the engine bay to the fuse box and insert the fuse tap into the designated ACC slot. On this car the ACC fuse area is above the driver's footrest; which side that is depends on whether your car is left or right hand drive.
AFS plug: if your car has AFS, handle the AFS alarm plug as shown in the kit instructions and secure any unused connector so it cannot rattle or chafe.
Part 3: Test, Reassemble and Aim
Step 9: Test Everything
Reconnect the battery and check low beam, high beam, the daytime running light, parking lights, turn signals and hazards on both sides. Fix any loose connection now, while the bumper is still off.
Step 10: Refit the Bumper and Molding
With every function confirmed, refit the front bumper and the upper molding in the reverse order of removal.
Step 11: Adjust the Beam Height
If the beams sit high, low or uneven, turn the adjustment nut on the back of the headlight with an 8mm socket. Clockwise lowers the beam, counterclockwise raises it. Park square to a flat wall and bring both sides to the same height.
Step 12: Final Check
Confirm the headlights, bumper, fender liners and upper molding all sit correctly with even gaps, and that nothing is loose.
Common Issues and Solutions
One headlight does not light. Recheck the main connector, the fuse tap and the ground connection. Inspect the pins inside the connector; if any are bent, carefully straighten them with a small precision tool and reconnect securely.
Everything works except the DRL. That circuit runs on the fuse tap from Step 8. Check it is in the correct ACC slot, that the fuse is seated, and that the red wire is not pinched along its route.
Warning, flicker or hyperflash. Recheck any decoder, resistor or adapter before adding universal parts.
Beam pattern is too high, low or uneven. Re-seat the lamp and check all retainers are tight first, then use the 8mm adjuster.
Condensation inside the headlight. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.
