2014-2016 Lexus IS LED Projector Headlights Installation Guide

Fits: 2014-2016 Lexus IS, 3rd generation (XE30) pre-facelift — IS250, IS300, IS350 and IS200t. DRL is white.

Pre-facelift only. Confirm your year before ordering.

The front bumper has to come off. On this car that also means dealing with the radar sensor behind the front emblem, if your car has one.

Before You Start

• Park on level ground, switch off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal while handling wiring.
• Use masking tape near painted edges around the hood, grille, bumper edge and fender liner.
• Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
• If a lamp or trim panel does not move, stop and look for another fastener or locating pin.
• Keep the bumper and liner hardware organised by position.

Required Tools

• Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
• 10 mm socket and ratchet
• Phillips and flat screwdrivers, plus a small screwdriver or pick for the sensor tab
• Masking tape and clean microfiber towels
• Electrical tape and zip ties for the supplied harnesses
• A flat wall for beam aiming

Part 1: Remove the Front Bumper

Step 1: Upper Cover and Bumper Fasteners

Press and pry out all the plastic clips securing the upper cover and remove it. Then use a 10 mm socket for the upper bolt and release the retaining clips on both sides.

Step 2: The Radar Sensor, If Equipped

If the front emblem contains a radar sensor, use a small screwdriver or trim tool to lift the locking tab and disconnect its wiring connector. Do not let it hang by the wire, and do not pull the bumper forward with it still plugged in.

Step 3: Wheel-Well Fasteners

Remove the plastic clips along the edge of each wheel well, then pull the fender liner back slightly to reach and remove the hidden 10 mm bolt in the inner corner.

Step 4: Lower Bumper Fasteners

From underneath the front of the car, use a 10 mm socket to remove the row of bolts and retaining clips along the lower edge of the bumper.

Step 5: Release the Bumper

Pull both bumper corners outward to release them from their retaining channels, then draw the bumper forward without excessive force. Disconnect the lighting and sensor harnesses on both sides before taking the bumper away.

Part 2: Remove the Factory Headlights

Step 6: Three Bolts, Then the Upper Tab

Remove the three 10 mm bolts holding each headlight — at the top, front and lower mounting points. Then gently move the headlight while using a trim tool to release the upper retaining tab, and pull the assembly forward.

Part 3: Install the New Headlights

Step 7: Connect and Mount

Depending on which build you have, the rear housing and connector layout may look slightly different — but the supplied connectors attach directly to the matching vehicle wiring. Connect the low/high beam plug and the DRL / turn signal plug, then position each headlight in its original location and tighten the mounting bolts.

Step 8: Test Before Reassembly

1. Low beam and high beam on both sides.
2. DRL and parking lights.
3. Left and right turn signals, hazards, and the sequential and switchback behaviour.
4. Startup animation, once the road-light functions pass.
5. Cycle the ignition twice and confirm no dashboard warning, flicker or intermittent operation.

Correct any loose or incomplete connection now, before the bumper goes back.

Step 9: Reassemble and Set the Beam Aim

Reconnect the bumper wiring and refit the bumper, lower fasteners, wheel-well fasteners, upper bolts, clips and plastic cover in reverse order — including the radar sensor connector if you removed it. Confirm everything is aligned and secure.

Then set the beam aim: park square to a flat wall about 25 feet away on level ground, mark the height of each beam centre, and bring the cut-off line level and even across both sides. A projector aimed too high is worse for oncoming traffic than the lamp it replaced.

Common Issues and Solutions

A driver-assistance warning appears. The radar sensor connector from Step 2 is not fully reconnected.

One lamp does not turn on. Recheck the main connector lock, the related fuse and the battery connection.

Swap test. If a headlight still does not work, swap the left and right units to find out whether the issue is the light or the car's wiring.

One function does not work. Check the low/high beam plug and the DRL/turn plug separately — they are two different connectors.

Warning, flicker or hyperflash. Confirm any included decoder, resistor or relay is connected and secured.

The bumper will not sit flush. Check the corner retaining channels, the hidden inner-corner bolts, and that no harness is trapped.

Beam pattern is too high or uneven. Recheck lamp seating first, then adjust the aim on a flat surface.

Condensation inside the headlight. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.

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