Fits: 2014-2024 Toyota 4Runner, 5th generation (N280) — SR5, TRD Off-Road, TRD Pro, Limited and Nightshade.
These steps cover all three builds: Clear, Triple Projector and Quad Projector. Removal and fitting are identical; only the lens layout differs.
The front bumper has to come off. This is the longest part of the job — budget for it rather than trying to work around the bumper.
Three things to decide before you bolt anything down, all covered in Step 8:
- DRL colour — white or amber, set by whether a plug is inserted or pulled out
- Dynamic function — on or off, set by a second plug
- Unlock/startup animation — only works if you run the leads to the battery positive and the ACC side of the fuse box
Before You Start
- Park on level ground, switch off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal while handling wiring.
- Keep the bumper and liner hardware organised by position — there are several different fastener types and they are not interchangeable.
- Use masking tape around painted bumper and fender edges.
- Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
- Leave the bumper off until the beam and DRL tests pass.
Required Tools
- Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
- Metric socket and ratchet set, including 10 mm
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers
- Masking tape and clean microfiber towels
- Replacement plastic clips
- Electrical tape and zip ties for the supplied harnesses
- A flat wall for beam aiming, and a helper for the function tests
Part 1: Remove the Front Bumper
Step 1: Remove the Radiator Cover
Open the hood and remove the 13 plastic clips holding the radiator cover.
Step 2: Release the Upper Grille
Remove the four clips behind the upper grille. If your truck has Toyota Safety Sense, remove the sensor mounting bolts and disconnect its plug — do not let the sensor hang by its wire.
Step 3: Grille and Wheel-Well Fasteners
Remove the upper grille bolt and two plastic clips. Then remove the three 10 mm inner-fender bolts per side, release the retaining tabs, pull the wheel-well liners back, and disconnect both fog light plugs.
Step 4: Lower Bumper Bolts
Remove the six 10 mm bolts from the bottom of the bumper.
On 2020 and newer trucks there is one more: behind the driver-side liner, press the lock and rotate the white collar to disconnect the main harness. It does not pull straight off — forcing it breaks the collar.
Step 5: Take the Bumper Cover Off
Pull both bumper edges outward to release the clips, then work toward the center and lift the cover off. Lay it on cardboard or a mat.
Part 2: Remove the Factory Headlights
Step 6: Unbolt and Remove
Push the hood seal back and remove the four 10 mm headlight mounting bolts, then pull each factory headlight out.
Step 7: Transfer the Mounting Bases
Remove the three screws from the bottom of each factory headlight and transfer the plastic mounting base to the new headlight. This part does not come in the box — if you skip it the new lamp has nothing to locate on at the bottom.
Part 3: Install the New Headlights
Step 8: Connect the Conversion Harness and Set Your Options
Use the wiring layout that matches your truck's configuration. Connect the high beam, low beam, DRL, turn signal and ACC leads to their corresponding connections, using the adapter cable where one is supplied.
Then set the three options:
- DRL colour. The headlight plug carries a white/amber choice: inserted for white, pulled out for amber.
- Dynamic function. A separate plug turns the dynamic effect on or off. Pick the mode you want now.
- Unlock and startup animation. This needs power the headlight harness alone does not carry — connect to the battery positive and to the vehicle ACC / fuse box. If the animation does not run later, this is almost always why.
The kit also includes a load module. It can go in any safe position — secure it away from heat, moving parts and water paths, and zip-tie it so it cannot swing.
Step 9: Mount the Headlights
With all the plugs connected, push each headlight into its original position and secure it with the mounting bolts. Before fully tightening, nudge each lamp until its edges line up flush with the hood and fender.
Step 10: Test Before the Bumper Goes Back
- Low beam and high beam on both sides.
- DRL — and confirm the colour is the one you chose.
- Parking and position lights, left and right turn signals, hazards, side markers if equipped.
- Startup animation, if you wired the ACC connection.
- Cycle the ignition twice and confirm no flicker, warning message, hyperflash or dead side.
- If a fuse tap was used, confirm it is in the correct fuse position and secured before closing the fuse box.
Step 11: Set the Beam Aim, Then Reassemble
Identify the vertical and horizontal adjusters before the bumper goes back on. Park square to a flat wall about 25 feet away on level ground, mark the height of each beam centre, and bring the cut-off line level and even across both sides. A projector aimed too high is worse for oncoming traffic than the lamp it replaced.
Then refit the bumper cover, liners, clips and trim, reconnecting the fog light plugs, the main harness collar on 2020 and newer trucks, and the Safety Sense sensor if you removed it.
Common Issues and Solutions
The startup animation does not run. The ACC / battery positive connection from Step 8 is missing or not making contact. The headlights themselves will work fine without it, which is what makes this confusing.
The DRLs are the wrong colour. The white/amber plug is in the other position. Inserted is white, pulled out is amber.
One headlight does not turn on. Recheck the main connector, the adapter harness, the fuse tap if used, and the ground.
DRL or turn signal does not work. Confirm the DRL/turn harness or ACC connection matches your truck's trim, not a different configuration in the wiring diagram.
Warning, flicker or hyperflash. Recheck the decoder, the load module and any trim-specific adapter before adding universal parts.
Beam pattern is too high, low or uneven. Re-seat the lamp and confirm every retainer is tight, then adjust the vertical and horizontal aimers.
A Safety Sense warning appears. The sensor plug from Step 2 is not fully reconnected.
Condensation inside the headlight. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.
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