Fits: 2010-2011 Toyota Camry (XV40, facelift) — Base, LE, SE, XLE and Hybrid.
This is for the 2010 facelift front end only. The 2007-2009 XV40 uses a different housing and this set will not fit it.
Three projector cups per side: two bi-function for low and high beam, one dedicated low beam, with a white DRL bar across the top of the housing. These steps cover every build — Clear side marker, Amber side marker, the RGB startup build and Dual-Blade — they share the same housing and install identically.
On the RGB build: the multi-colour sweep is part of the startup animation only. It is preset, runs on its own, and does not change the white road beam.
The Base/LE/XLE chrome housing and the SE black housing carry different factory part numbers but share the same opening, so either car takes this set.
Before You Start
- Park on level ground, switch the car off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal while handling wiring.
- Use clean towels or masking tape around painted panels, the hood edge and the grille trim.
- Do a full side before starting the other, so the original lamp stays as a reference.
- If a lamp or trim panel does not move, stop and look for another fastener rather than forcing it.
- Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
- Leave the grille and bumper trim loose until every function passes and the beam aim is set.
Required Tools
- Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
- Metric socket and ratchet set
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers
- Clean microfiber towels and masking tape
- A few replacement plastic clips, in case one breaks
- Electrical tape and zip ties for the supplied harness
- A helper for turn signal testing, and a flat wall for beam aiming
Part 1: Remove the Factory Headlights
Step 1: Open Up the Front
Open the hood and remove only the grille trim, upper bumper fasteners and access covers you need to reach the headlight fasteners.
Step 2: Expose the Fasteners
Release the clips with a trim tool rather than a screwdriver. Work slowly and confirm each fastener before pulling anything.
Step 3: Support and Unbolt
Hold the headlight with one hand while removing the remaining bolts or clips.
Step 4: Disconnect
Press each lock tab and pull on the connector body, not on the wires.
Step 5: Release the Lamp
Draw the headlight straight forward off its locating pins. Do not pry against a painted panel.
Part 2: Install the New Headlights
Step 6: Compare the Two Lamps
Set the old and new lamp side by side. Transfer a bracket, seal or adjuster only if the original clearly carries a part the new one does not.
Step 7: Connect
Match each connector to the corresponding vehicle connector and confirm the lock tab clicks home. Where an adapter lead is supplied, connect through it rather than forcing a direct plug — there is one per side.
Step 8: Secure the Wiring
Zip-tie the harness clear of the hood latch, the radiator support and any heat source before the lamp goes in.
Step 9: Seat and Fasten
Align the locating pins and check the panel gaps against the hood, fender and grille before tightening. Tighten evenly, without overtightening plastic mounts.
Step 10: Test Before the Trim Goes Back
- Daytime running lights, low beam and high beam on both sides.
- Left and right turn signals and hazards — confirm the amber sweep runs on the correct side.
- Startup animation on ignition.
- Confirm no hyperflash or flicker after two ignition cycles.
Step 11: Set the Beam Aim
This step matters more than usual here, because the car is moving to a projector with a sharp cut-off. A projector aimed too high is worse for oncoming traffic than the lamp it replaced.
- Park square to a flat wall about 25 feet away, on level ground, with a normal fuel load and nothing unusual in the trunk.
- Mark the height of each beam centre on the wall and compare the two sides.
- Use the headlight adjusters to bring the cut-off line level and even across both sides.
With the aim set, refit the grille and bumper trim and check no wire is stretched or pinched.
Common Issues and Solutions
One headlight does not turn on. Recheck the main connector on that side, the adapter lead at both ends, and the corresponding fuse. Inspect the pins inside the connector; if any are bent, carefully straighten them with a small precision tool and reconnect securely.
Warning, flicker or hyperflash. Confirm the connector is fully seated, and that the adapter is used on both sides, before assuming the assembly is faulty.
Trim will not sit flush. Check for a trapped harness, a broken or missing clip, or a locating pin that has not seated.
Beam pattern looks uneven. Recheck the aim against a flat wall before adjusting anything else.
Condensation inside the headlight. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.
