Fits: 2007-2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser, North American market. The FJ ran its full production without a front-end design change, so any year in that range takes the same lamp.
These steps cover both builds, Halo and Star Block. Each has a single projector per side, and they share the same housing, mounting points and plug, so they install identically. What differs is the daytime light: Halo runs a switchback that goes white to amber; Star Block stays white and lights an amber side marker at the outer corner.
In the box: left and right headlight assemblies. The Star Block build also includes an adapter harness for negative-switched trucks — fit it only if your truck is wired that way. Confirm the turn signal and daytime light behave correctly with the lamp still loose, before you put the grille back.
Before You Start
- Park on level ground, switch off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal while handling wiring.
- Tape the painted edges around the hood, grille and bumper before removal.
- Work one side at a time so the other lamp stays as a reference.
- If a lamp or trim piece does not move, stop and look for another fastener rather than forcing it.
- Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
Required Tools
- Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
- Metric socket and ratchet set
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers
- Clean microfiber towels and masking tape
- Electrical tape and zip ties for the supplied harness
- A wall or flat vertical surface for checking the beam pattern
Part 1: Remove the Factory Headlights
Step 1: Release the Grille Clips
Use a trim tool or screwdriver to release the plastic retaining clips along the top of the front grille.
Step 2: Remove the Grille Screws
With a socket wrench, take out the mounting screws at both ends of the top of the grille.
Step 3: Remove the Grille and Lower Trim
Pull the grille outward carefully and lift it off the truck, then remove the small side trim piece below the headlight and release its retaining clips.
Step 4: Remove the Headlight Screws
Take out the mounting screws around the headlight assembly, on the front face and on the side.
Step 5: Remove the Lower Screw and Draw the Lamp Out
Use a Phillips screwdriver on the screw in the narrow area below the headlight, then carefully pull the assembly out of its mounting position.
Step 6: Disconnect and Remove
Unplug the main bulb connector and the turn signal or corner light connector, then take the factory headlight off the truck.
Part 2: Install the New Headlights
Step 7: Connect and Secure
Connect every matching electrical connector to the new LED headlight, set the assembly into its mounting position and secure it.
Star Block build: if your truck is negative-switched, fit the included adapter harness first, between the truck's plug and the lamp.
Step 8: Test Before Reassembly
Before anything goes back on, run every lighting function and confirm both new headlights work.
- Low beam and high beam on both sides.
- Daytime running light and parking light. On Halo the DRL switches white to amber; on Star Block it stays white and the amber side marker lights at the outer corner.
- Amber turn signal and hazards.
- Check for dashboard warnings, flicker or intermittent operation.
Step 9: Reassemble and Check the Beam Aim
Refit the lower trim, the grille and its clips and screws, then do the other side and reconnect the negative battery terminal. Finally, park square to a flat vertical surface and confirm the cutoff line sits level and at the same height on both sides.
Common Issues and Solutions
One headlight does not light. Recheck the main connector lock, the related fuse and the battery connection. On the Star Block build, also confirm whether your truck needs the adapter harness.
A single function does not work. Compare the plug area against the lamp you removed and check the connector is fully seated.
Warning message, flicker or hyperflash. Confirm the right build was installed and that any included decoder, resistor or relay is connected and secured.
The lamp will not sit flush. Check for a trapped harness behind the housing rather than forcing the screws.
Beam pattern is too high or uneven. Recheck the lamp is fully seated first, then adjust the aim on a flat surface.
Condensation inside the headlight. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.
Shop LED Lights for Your FJ Cruiser
See all PrismBeam LED lights for the 2007-2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser
