2006-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 LED Projector Headlights Installatio

Fits: 2006-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series (J100).

Check your model year first. Toyota changed the 100 Series headlight housing for 2006. This assembly is for the 2006-2007 housing; a 1998-2005 truck takes a different part. Go by model year, not by how the front end looks.

Does not fit the Lexus LX470. It shares the platform but uses different mounting and has a factory levelling motor.

Three projector cups per side: two bi-function for low and high beam, one dedicated low beam, with a white DRL bar the width of the housing.

PrismBeam LED projector headlight on a Toyota Land Cruiser 100 at dusk

Before You Start

Have replacement clips ready. On a truck of this age the grille and headlight-surround clips have usually gone brittle, and some will break on the way out.
Park on level ground, switch off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal while handling wiring.
Use clean towels or masking tape around painted panels, the hood edge and the grille trim.
Do a full side before starting the other, so the original lamp stays as a reference.
If a lamp or trim panel does not move, stop and look for another fastener rather than forcing it.
Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
Leave the grille and bumper trim loose until every function passes and the beam aim is set.

Required Tools

Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
Metric socket and ratchet set
Phillips and flat screwdrivers
Clean microfiber towels and masking tape
Replacement plastic clips
Electrical tape and zip ties for the supplied harness
A helper for turn signal testing, and a flat wall for beam aiming

Part 1: Remove the Factory Headlights

Step 1: Open Up the Front

Open the hood and remove only the grille trim, upper bumper fasteners and access covers you need to reach the headlight fasteners.

Step 2: Expose the Fasteners

Release the clips with a trim tool rather than a screwdriver. Work slowly and confirm each fastener before pulling anything — this is where the brittle clips break.

Step 3: Support and Unbolt

Hold the headlight with one hand while removing the remaining bolts or clips.

Step 4: Disconnect

Press each lock tab and pull on the connector body, not on the wires.

Step 5: Release the Lamp

Draw the headlight straight forward off its locating pins. Do not pry against a painted panel.

Part 2: Install the New Headlights

Step 6: Compare the Two Lamps

Set the old and new lamp side by side. Transfer a bracket, seal or adjuster only if the original clearly carries a part the new one does not.

Step 7: Connect

Match each connector to the corresponding vehicle connector and confirm the lock tab clicks home. Where an adapter is supplied, connect through it rather than forcing a direct plug.

Step 8: Secure the Wiring

Zip-tie the harness clear of the hood latch, the radiator support and any heat source before the lamp goes in.

Step 9: Seat and Fasten

Align the locating pins and check the panel gaps against the hood, fender and grille before tightening. Tighten evenly, without overtightening plastic mounts.

Step 10: Test Before the Trim Goes Back

Daytime running lights, low beam and high beam on both sides.
Left and right turn signals and hazards — confirm the amber sweep runs on the correct side.
Startup animation on ignition.
Confirm no hyperflash or flicker after two ignition cycles.

Step 11: Set the Beam Aim

This step matters more than usual here, because the truck is moving to a projector with a sharp cut-off. A projector aimed too high is worse for oncoming traffic than the lamp it replaced.

Park square to a flat wall about 25 feet away, on level ground, with a normal fuel load and nothing unusual in the cargo area.
Mark the height of each beam centre on the wall and compare the two sides.
Use the headlight adjusters to bring the cut-off line level and even across both sides.

With the aim set, refit the grille and bumper trim and check no wire is stretched or pinched.

Common Issues and Solutions

One headlight does not turn on. Recheck the main connector on that side and the corresponding fuse. Inspect the pins inside the connector; if any are bent, carefully straighten them with a small precision tool and reconnect securely.

Warning, flicker or hyperflash. Confirm the connector is fully seated, and that the correct adapter is used where one is supplied, before assuming the assembly is faulty.

Trim will not sit flush. Check for a trapped harness, a broken or missing clip, or a locating pin that has not seated. On this truck a broken clip is the usual answer.

Beam pattern looks uneven. Recheck the aim against a flat wall before adjusting anything else.

Condensation inside the headlight. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.