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2007-2013 Toyota Tundra & 2008-2017 Sequoia LED Headlights Installation Guide

2007-2013 Toyota Tundra & 2008-2017 Sequoia LED Headlights Installation Guide

Fits: 2007-2013 Toyota Tundra (2nd generation, pre-facelift front end) and 2008-2017 Toyota Sequoia, with factory halogen headlights. Toyota used the same lamp on both vehicles, which is why one guide covers them.

Read This Before You Remove Anything

Auto Leveling and the Headlight Washer are not supported. If your vehicle has either, the headlights still install and operate normally and set no fault codes — but automatic levelling and the washers stop working. Decide whether that is acceptable to you before the factory lamps come off.

What Each Build Does

  • Dual Projector — DRL is white or amber, chosen during installation by which plugs you connect. Has a startup animation.
  • Triple Projector — DRL is white only, no colour plug to choose. No startup animation. If you were expecting one on this build, that is the product, not a fault.

PrismBeam LED headlights on a 2007-2013 Toyota Tundra

Before You Start

  • Park on level ground, switch off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal while handling wiring.
  • Use masking tape near painted edges around the hood, grille, bumper edge and fender liner.
  • Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
  • If a lamp or trim panel does not move, stop and look for another fastener or locating pin.

Required Tools

  • Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
  • 10 mm socket and ratchet
  • Phillips and flat screwdrivers
  • Masking tape, a soft cloth and clean microfiber towels
  • Electrical tape and zip ties for the supplied harnesses
  • A flat wall for beam aiming

Part 1: Remove the Factory Headlights

Step 1: Remove the Trim Panel Below the Headlight

Open the hood and find the trim panel below the factory headlight. Remove its two retaining clips with a trim tool, then place a soft cloth over the painted surface and carefully pry the panel away from the fender.

Step 1: the trim panel below the headlight

Step 2: Remove the Three Mounting Bolts

Use a 10 mm socket to remove the three bolts holding the factory headlight. Keep them — the new lamp uses the same three.

Step 2: the first mounting boltStep 2: the second mounting boltStep 2: the third mounting bolt

Step 3: Release the Top Clips

There are two retaining clips at the top of the headlight. Release the assembly from them, then pull it forward and away from the truck.

Step 3: the two retaining clips at the top

Step 4: Disconnect

Support the assembly and disconnect all the connectors from the back. Release each locking tab first, and do not pull on the wires.

Step 4: disconnecting the first connectorStep 4: disconnecting the second connectorStep 4: factory headlight removed

Part 2: Install the New Headlights

Step 5: Connect — and Pick Your DRL Colour Now

The connectors are labelled:

  • A — low beam
  • B — high beam
  • C — signal wire

On the Dual Projector build, the DRL colour is set by which pair you connect:

  • Plugs a + c → white turn signal DRL
  • Plugs a + b → yellow turn signal DRL

Use only the combination for the colour you want, and make sure every connected plug is fully seated. This is a wiring choice, not a setting you can change from the cabin later.

On the Triple Projector build the daytime running light is white only and there is no colour plug — connect the supplied leads as they are.

High-spec vehicles should use the supplied adapter harness where applicable.

Step 5: connectors A, B and C and the DRL colour plugs

Step 6: Test, Then Secure

Test all lighting functions before securing the headlight — including the DRL, so you can confirm you got the colour you wanted while the plugs are still easy to reach.

Once everything works, fit the headlight in the factory position, refit the three bolts and the lower trim panel, then repeat on the opposite side.

Step 6: testing before securing the headlight

Step 7: Full Function Test and Beam Aim

  1. Low beam and high beam on both sides.
  2. DRL, parking light, amber turn signal, hazards, and the sequential and switchback behaviour.
  3. Startup animation — on the Dual Projector build only.
  4. Check for dashboard warnings, flicker or intermittent operation.
  5. Set the beam aim against a flat wall about 25 feet away on level ground, bringing the cut-off line level and even. A projector aimed too high is worse for oncoming traffic than the lamp it replaced.

Common Issues and Solutions

Auto levelling or the headlight washer stopped working. Expected — those two functions are not supported. No fault code will appear.

The DRL is the wrong colour. The other plug pair was connected. Go back to Step 5: a + c is white, a + b is yellow.

There is no startup animation. On the Triple Projector build there is none. The Dual Projector build has it.

One lamp does not turn on. Recheck the main connector lock, the related fuse and the battery connection.

One function does not work. Verify that connector is fully seated — check A, B and C individually rather than assuming.

Warning, flicker or hyperflash. Confirm you installed the build that matches your vehicle, and that any included decoder, resistor or relay is connected and secured.

Beam pattern is too high or uneven. Recheck lamp seating first, then adjust the aim on a flat surface.

Condensation inside the headlight. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.

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