Fits: 2011-2014 Chrysler 300, 300C, 300S and SRT8 on the LD platform.
Trim does not change the part. Base and 300C models share the same outer factory LED tail light fitment, so you do not need to work out which one you have.
This product covers the outer body-mounted tail lights.
Before You Start
- Park on level ground, switch off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal while handling wiring.
- Use masking tape around the painted trunk lid and quarter-panel edges.
- Fold back liners and sound insulation carefully so the push clips can be reused — they are easier to preserve than to replace.
- Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
- Leave the trunk trim open until every function has passed testing.
Required Tools
- Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
- Metric socket and ratchet set
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers
- Masking tape and clean microfiber towels
- Electrical tape and zip ties for the supplied harnesses
- A helper for brake light and turn signal testing
Part 1: Remove the Factory Tail Lights
Step 1: Open the Rear Access
Open the trunk and remove only the trim panels, access covers and clips you need to reach the tail light fasteners.
Step 2: Expose the Fasteners
Fold back the liners or sound insulation carefully so the push clips survive for reassembly.
Step 3: Support and Unfasten
Hold the lamp with one hand while removing its nuts, bolts, screws or clips.
Step 4: Disconnect
Press each lock tab and pull on the connector body, not on the wires.
Step 5: Draw the Lamp Straight Rearward
Release the locating pins by pulling straight back. Do not pry against a painted panel.
Step 6: One Side at a Time
Finish one side completely before starting the other, so the factory lamp stays available as a reference.
Part 2: Install the New Tail Lights
Step 7: Compare Before Fitting
Set the removed lamp beside its replacement. Transfer a bulb holder, seal, bracket or decorative piece only where the factory lamp clearly carries a part the new one does not.
Step 8: Connect
Match each supplied connector to the corresponding vehicle connector and confirm the lock tab clicks home.
Step 9: Secure the Wiring
Zip-tie so nothing can rub, pinch or pool water, and keep wiring clear of hinge travel, latch movement, weather seals and sharp edges.
Step 10: Seat and Fasten
Align the locating pins and check the panel gap against the quarter panel and trunk lid before tightening. Tighten evenly and do not overtighten plastic mounts.
Step 11: Test Before the Trim Goes Back
- Parking and running lights on both sides.
- Brake lights, with a helper on the pedal.
- Left and right turn signals and hazards — confirm the sweep runs on the correct side and both sides light at equal brightness.
- Reverse lights, with the car safely in reverse and the parking brake on.
- Startup animation, once the road-light functions pass.
- Cycle the ignition twice and confirm no bulb-out warning, hyperflash or flicker.
Step 12: Reassemble
Refit the trim panels, then close the trunk slowly and confirm no wire is stretched or pinched.
Common Issues and Solutions
One lamp does not turn on. Recheck the main connector on that side and the corresponding fuse before assuming a fault in the assembly.
Brake, reverse, running or turn behaves wrong. Stop and recheck the connector choice and wire routing before moving pins or changing wiring.
Bulb-out warning, flicker or hyperflash. Confirm the included decoders and LED flash relay are connected exactly as supplied for this car.
The two sides are different brightness. Recheck the connector and decoder on the dimmer side — this usually means one is not fully seated.
Trim will not sit flush. Check for a trapped harness, a misaligned clip, a folded weather seal, or a locating pin that has not seated.
Condensation inside the tail light. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.
