Fits: 2014-2019 Lexus GX460 (J150) facelift — the spindle-grille trucks.
The 2010-2013 pre-facelift GX460 uses a different headlight opening and this assembly will not fit it. It also does not fit the 2003-2009 GX470 (J120) — for that truck see the GX470 headlight guide.
Three bi-function projector cups per side, plus a white DRL bar the width of the housing.
This truck needs the harness adapter that ships in the box. Connect through the adapter — do not go looking for a direct plug.
Before You Start
- Park on level ground, switch off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal while handling wiring.
- Use clean towels or masking tape around painted panels, the hood edge and the grille trim.
- If a lamp or trim panel does not move, stop and look for another fastener or locating pin rather than forcing it. Have replacement plastic clips on hand.
- Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
- Leave the grille and bumper trim loose until every function has passed testing and the beam aim is set.
Required Tools
- Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
- Metric socket and ratchet set
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers
- Clean microfiber towels and masking tape
- Replacement plastic clips
- Electrical tape and zip ties for the supplied harness
- A helper for turn signal testing, and a flat wall for beam aiming
Part 1: Remove the Factory Headlights
Step 1: Open the Front End
Open the hood and remove only the grille trim, upper bumper fasteners and access covers you need to reach the headlight fasteners.
Step 2: Release the Clips
Use a trim tool rather than a screwdriver. Work slowly and confirm each fastener before pulling.
Step 3: Support and Unbolt
Hold the headlight with one hand while removing the remaining bolts or clips.
Step 4: Disconnect
Press each lock tab and pull on the connector body, not on the wires.
Step 5: Draw the Lamp Forward
Release the locating pins by pulling straight forward. Do not pry against a painted panel.
Step 6: One Side at a Time
Finish one side completely before starting the other, so the factory assembly stays available as a reference.
Part 2: Install the New Headlights
Step 7: Compare Before Mounting
Set the old and new assembly side by side. Transfer a bracket, seal or adjuster only where the factory lamp clearly carries a part the new one does not.
Step 8: Connect Through the Adapter
Seat the supplied adapter between the vehicle connector and the new headlight's connector, and confirm each lock tab clicks home. If a plug feels like it needs force, you are trying to bypass the adapter.
Step 9: Secure the Wiring
Zip-tie the adapter and harness so they cannot rub, pinch, pool water, or touch the hood latch, radiator support or a heat source.
Step 10: Seat and Fasten
Align the locating pins and check the gaps against the hood, fender and grille before tightening. Tighten evenly and do not overtighten plastic mounts.
Step 11: Test Before the Trim Goes Back
- Daytime running lights, low beam and high beam on both sides.
- Left and right turn signals and hazards — confirm the amber sweeps sequentially on the correct side.
- Startup animation.
- Cycle the ignition twice and confirm no hyperflash or flicker appears.
Part 3: Set the Beam Aim
Do not skip this. You are moving to a projector with a sharp cut-off, and a projector aimed too high is worse for oncoming traffic than the lamp it replaced.
- Park square to a flat wall about 25 feet away on level ground, with a normal fuel load and no unusual weight in the cargo area.
- Mark the height of each beam centre on the wall and compare the two sides.
- Use the headlight adjusters to bring the cut-off line level and even across both sides.
Only then refit the grille and bumper trim, confirming no wire is stretched or pinched.
Common Issues and Solutions
One headlight does not turn on. Recheck the main connector on that side and the corresponding fuse.
One function is missing. Verify the adapter is used rather than a direct plug, and that every lock tab on both ends of it is seated.
Warning, flicker or hyperflash. Confirm the connector is fully seated before assuming a fault in the assembly.
Trim will not sit flush. Check for a trapped harness, a broken or missing clip, or a locating pin that has not seated.
Beam pattern looks uneven. Recheck the aim against a flat wall before adjusting anything else.
Condensation inside the housing. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.
