Fits: 2003-2009 Lexus GX470 (J120).
Does not fit the 2010-2023 Lexus GX460 (J150) — that is a different generation with a different headlight opening. For the GX460 see the GX460 headlight guide.
Three bi-function projector cups per side, a white DRL bar the width of the housing, and an amber side marker at the outer corner.
Before You Start
- Have replacement clips on hand. On a truck of this age the grille and headlight-surround clips have usually gone brittle. Expect to break a few, and buy them before you start rather than halfway through.
- Sport-package and non-Sport trucks use different factory part numbers. Confirm which housing you are removing before ordering replacement clips.
- Park on level ground, switch off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal while handling wiring.
- Use clean towels or masking tape around painted panels, the hood edge and the grille trim.
- Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
- Leave the grille and bumper trim loose until every function has passed testing and the beam aim is set.
Required Tools
- Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
- Metric socket and ratchet set
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers
- Clean microfiber towels and masking tape
- Replacement plastic clips
- Electrical tape and zip ties for the supplied harness
- A helper for turn signal testing, and a flat wall for beam aiming
Part 1: Remove the Factory Headlights
Step 1: Open the Front End
Open the hood and remove only the grille trim, upper bumper fasteners and access covers you need to reach the headlight fasteners.
Step 2: Release the Clips
Use a trim tool rather than a screwdriver. Work slowly and confirm each fastener before pulling — this is where brittle clips break.
Step 3: Support and Unbolt
Hold the headlight with one hand while removing the remaining bolts or clips.
Step 4: Disconnect
Press each lock tab and pull on the connector body, not on the wires.
Step 5: Draw the Lamp Forward
Release the locating pins by pulling straight forward. Do not pry against a painted panel.
Step 6: One Side at a Time
Finish one side completely before starting the other, so the factory assembly stays available as a reference.
Part 2: Install the New Headlights
Step 7: Compare Before Mounting
Set the old and new assembly side by side. Transfer a bracket, seal or adjuster only where the factory lamp clearly carries a part the new one does not.
Step 8: Connect
Match each supplied connector to the corresponding vehicle connector and confirm the lock tab clicks home. Where an adapter is supplied, connect through it rather than forcing a direct plug.
Step 9: Secure the Wiring
Zip-tie the harness so it cannot rub, pinch, pool water, or touch the hood latch, radiator support or a heat source.
Step 10: Seat and Fasten
Align the locating pins and check the gaps against the hood, fender and grille before tightening. Tighten evenly and do not overtighten plastic mounts.
Step 11: Test Before the Trim Goes Back
- Daytime running lights, low beam and high beam on both sides.
- Left and right turn signals and hazards — confirm the amber sweeps sequentially on the correct side.
- Startup animation.
- Cycle the ignition twice and confirm no hyperflash or flicker appears.
Part 3: Set the Beam Aim
Do not skip this. You are moving from a reflector to a projector with a sharp cut-off, and a projector aimed too high is worse for oncoming traffic than the lamp it replaced.
- Park square to a flat wall about 25 feet away on level ground, with a normal fuel load and no unusual weight in the cargo area.
- Mark the height of each beam centre on the wall and compare the two sides.
- Use the headlight adjusters to bring the cut-off line level and even across both sides.
Only then refit the grille and bumper trim, confirming no wire is stretched or pinched.
Common Issues and Solutions
One headlight does not turn on. Recheck the main connector on that side and the corresponding fuse.
Warning, flicker or hyperflash. Confirm the connector is fully seated, and that the correct adapter is used where one is supplied, before assuming a fault in the assembly.
Trim will not sit flush. Check for a trapped harness, a broken or missing clip, or a locating pin that has not seated.
Beam pattern looks uneven. Recheck the aim against a flat wall before adjusting anything else.
Condensation inside the housing. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.
