2020-2026 Toyota Corolla Sedan LED Tail Lights Installation Guide

Fits: 2020-2026 Toyota Corolla Sedan (E210, 12th generation) — gasoline and Hybrid, all trims.

Does not fit the Corolla Hatchback, the GR Corolla, or 2019-and-earlier E170 sedans. Those use a different housing, mounting point and connector. Confirm you have an E210 sedan before removing anything.

These steps cover all three builds — Smoked Red, Smoked White and RGB. Removal and fitting are identical; the RGB build has an extra app setup section at the end.

Read This First: It Is a Three-Piece Set

Left and right tail lamps, plus a center full-width bar that spans the trunk lid.

The factory sedan has no full-width bar. The center piece replaces the factory garnish panel above the license plate — that garnish comes off and is not reused. If you were expecting a straight lamp-for-lamp swap, this is the part that surprises people.

The center bar draws power through the supplied no-cut harness, tapped from the left and right lamps. Clips and plugs throughout — no splicing into vehicle wiring.

This is also not a pure bolt-off, bolt-on job: the outer lamps plug straight into the factory connectors, but reaching them means removing the trunk-side trim panels. Budget 45 to 60 minutes with basic socket tools.

Good news on driver assistance: the factory Blind Spot Monitor sensors sit inside the rear bumper, not in the lamps, so this upgrade does not affect blind-spot or rear cross-traffic alert.

PrismBeam through-style LED tail lights on a 2020-2026 Toyota Corolla sedan

Before You Start

Switch the car off before unplugging anything, and disconnect the negative battery terminal while handling wiring.
Use masking tape around the painted trunk lid and quarter-panel edges.
Identify the factory garnish clip positions above the license plate before you pull — the garnish is removed, not reused, but the clips left behind will stop the new bar seating.
Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
Leave the trunk trim open until every function has passed testing.

Required Tools

Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
Metric socket and ratchet set
Phillips and flat screwdrivers
Masking tape and clean microfiber towels
Electrical tape and zip ties for the supplied harnesses
A helper for brake light and turn signal testing

Part 1: Remove the Factory Lamps and Garnish

Step 1: Open the Trunk and Remove Trim

Take off the trunk-side trim panels, access covers and clips you need to reach the outer lamp fasteners.

Step 2: Support and Unfasten

Hold each outer lamp with one hand while removing nuts, bolts, screws, clips or bulb holders.

Step 3: Disconnect

Press each lock tab and pull on the connector body, not on the wires.

Step 4: Pull the Lamp Out

Pull straight out along the locating pins. Do not pry against a painted panel.

Step 5: Remove the Factory Garnish

Release the garnish panel above the license plate at its clip positions and set it aside. It is replaced by the new center bar and is not reused. Check that no clip has stayed behind in the trunk lid.

Step 6: Repeat on the Other Side

Part 2: Install the New Tail Lights

Step 7: Compare Before Fitting

Set each removed lamp beside its replacement. Transfer a bulb holder, seal, bracket or plate lamp only where the factory lamp clearly carries a part the new one does not.

Step 8: Connect the Outer Lamps

Match each supplied connector to the corresponding vehicle connector and confirm the lock tab clicks home.

Step 9: Fit the Center Bar

Seat the center full-width bar where the garnish was and align it to the trunk lid clip positions before tightening anything.

Step 10: Connect the No-Cut Harness

Plug the supplied center-bar harness into the tap points on the left and right lamps. Do not cut or splice any vehicle wiring — if you find yourself reaching for a stripper, stop and recheck the harness.

Step 11: Secure the Wiring

Zip-tie so nothing can rub, pinch or pool water. Route the center-bar harness so it does not cross the trunk latch, the hinge travel, or the weather seal.

Step 12: Seat and Fasten

Align the locating pins, ball studs, clips and body gaps on the outer lamps and the center bar. Tighten evenly and do not overtighten plastic mounts.

Step 13: Test Before the Trim Goes Back

Running and parking lights on both sides.
Brake lights, with a helper on the pedal.
Left and right turn signals and hazards — confirm the sweep runs in sequence across the outer lamps on both sides.
Reverse lights, with the car safely in reverse and the parking brake on.
The center bar — confirm it lights with the running and brake circuits, and that it is not powered when the car is off.
Startup animation.
Confirm blind-spot and rear cross-traffic alert operate normally with no warning message.

Step 14: Reassemble

Refit the trim panels, then close the trunk slowly and confirm no wire is stretched or pinched by the lid or latch.

Brake and turn functions stay red and amber on all three builds, as road use requires. The Smoked Red and Smoked White builds are now fully installed. The next section applies only to the RGB build.

RGB: Star Light Running App Setup

Star Light Running app setup, figure 1

1. Remote control pairing. The remote comes pre-paired with the lamps and returns the bar to Red Light Driving Mode (static red, no flowing animation) with one press. If the remote does not work, first check the battery tab has been pulled out; then press the brake pedal and hold the remote button for 10 seconds to pair it again.

2. Animation control. The app controls the running-light animations. The startup animation is preset and cannot be changed.

3. Download the app. Search for "Star Light Running" in the App Store or Google Play, or scan the QR code on the controller box.

4. Bluetooth connection. Open the app, tap Add Device (Figure 2), open the interface (Figure 3), and select the nearby device.

5. Adjusting modes.

Dynamic mode: the number in the center of the blue box shows the current mode. Tap + or - to switch effects, or AUTO to cycle through all of them.
Static color: drag the color wheel in the green box, or tap a preset color. This stops any running animation.
Brightness: drag the slider in the first row of the red box.
Speed: drag the slider in the last row of the red box.

Tip: if you used the older "Light Running" app and have trouble connecting, use "Star Light Running", the upgraded version.

Road use. Color modes are for show and display use where permitted. Confirm that the standard road-light functions work normally before using any color mode.

Common Issues and Solutions

The center bar does not light. Recheck both no-cut harness tap points at the left and right lamps. The bar draws power from the outer lamps, not from a separate vehicle circuit — so there is no fuse to check.

The center bar sits proud of the trunk lid. A factory garnish clip was left behind. Check every clip position from Step 5.

One tail light does not turn on. Recheck the main connector, the side-specific extension wire, and any plug-in adapter supplied with the kit.

A brake, reverse, running or turn function behaves wrong. Stop and recheck the connector choice and wire routing before moving pins or changing wiring.

Warning, flicker or hyperflash. Confirm the integrated CANBUS decoders are seated and the harness is installed exactly as supplied for this product.

RGB or the remote does not respond. Confirm the controller has power, the Star Light Running app is paired, and the RF remote battery tab has been removed.

App cannot connect. Turn on Bluetooth and Location Services on your phone (Android needs Location for Bluetooth scanning). The car's parking lights must be on to power the Bluetooth module.

Condensation inside the tail light. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.