Fits: 2014-2021 Toyota Tundra (2nd generation, facelift front end). DRL is white or amber — a two-colour switchback.
For the 2007-2013 pre-facelift truck, see the 2007-2013 Tundra and Sequoia headlight guide — it is a different lamp and a different teardown.
The front grille comes off first. That is the main difference from the earlier truck, where the grille stays put.
Before You Start
- Park on level ground, switch off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal while handling wiring.
- Use masking tape near painted edges around the hood, grille, bumper edge and fender liner.
- Have a towel or soft surface ready to lay each removed headlight on — the lens scratches easily.
- Do not put dielectric or weather-sealing grease on connectors or sockets.
- If a lamp or trim panel does not move, stop and look for another fastener or locating pin.
Required Tools
- Trim removal tool or panel clip tool
- 10 mm socket and ratchet
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers
- Masking tape and clean microfiber towels
- Electrical tape and zip ties for the supplied harnesses
- A flat wall for beam aiming
Part 1: Open Up the Front End
Step 1: Remove the Front Grille
Open the hood, remove the two plastic retaining clips and four 10 mm bolts along the top of the grille, then lift the grille upward and off the truck.
Step 2: Remove the Lower Headlight Trim
Remove the two retaining clips at the front of the trim and the two 10 mm bolts inside the fender, then take the trim off from below the headlight.
Part 2: Remove the Factory Headlights
Step 3: Remove the Three Bolts
Three 10 mm bolts hold each headlight: two upper and one side.
Step 4: Disconnect and Remove
Put the assembly down on a towel or soft surface to protect the lens, then disconnect all the connectors from the back and take the headlight away.
Part 3: Install the New Headlights
Step 5: Connect and Secure
Use the supplied wiring harness to connect all the corresponding connectors, then position the new headlight and secure it. Before you fully tighten, nudge each lamp until its edges line up flush with the hood and fender.
Step 6: Test Every Function
- Low beam and high beam on both sides.
- DRL, parking light, amber turn signal, hazards, and the sequential and switchback behaviour.
- Startup animation, once the road-light functions pass.
- Check for dashboard warnings, flicker or intermittent operation.
Step 7: Set the Beam Aim, Then Reassemble
Park square to a flat wall about 25 feet away on level ground, mark the height of each beam centre, and bring the cut-off line level and even across both sides. A projector aimed too high is worse for oncoming traffic than the lamp it replaced.
Then refit the lower trim and the grille, confirming no wire is stretched or pinched.
Common Issues and Solutions
One lamp does not turn on. Recheck the main connector lock, the related fuse and the battery connection.
Swap test. If a headlight still does not work, swap the left and right units to find out whether the issue is the light or the truck's wiring.
One function does not work. Verify each connector on the supplied harness is fully seated, individually.
Warning, flicker or hyperflash. Confirm any included decoder, resistor or relay is connected and secured.
The grille will not sit right. Check that all four upper bolts and both clips went back, and that no harness is trapped behind it.
Beam pattern is too high or uneven. Recheck lamp seating first, then adjust the aim on a flat surface.
Condensation inside the headlight. Temperature differences can cause light condensation, which is normal. Once the light has been on for a while and the internal temperature stabilizes, the moisture clears on its own. It does not affect brightness, performance, or lifespan.
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